Food escapades in modernist cuisine

Le Bouchon de Carnivores

Le Bouchon de Carnivores
8 Rue des Marronniers, 69002 Lyon, France
+33 4 78 42 97 69

During our first day in Lyon, we arrived and dropped off our luggage at the hotel, which was near the Contemporary Art Museum. Lyon doesn't have a subway system, so we took a bus into the city to grab some food, stopping near Place Bellacour.

Lyon is most known for its bouchons, which are restaurants that specialize in traditional Lyonaisse dishes. Lyonaisse dishes tend to be pretty rich and hearty, featuring lots of meat. This is in contrast to nouvelle cuisine, which as mentioned in a previous post focuses on freshness of ingredients and lighter preparations. Bouchons also tend to have a more casual atmosphere compared with restaurants serving "haute cuisine".

Right near Place Bellacour, there's a street called Marronniers that is lined with bouchons. All of the bouchons appeared to offer pre-fixe menus with various choices for each course. We looked at a few menus and then picked a place we liked, which ended up being Le Bouchon de Carnivores.

To start the meal, the waitress brought over some bread and this freebie, which comprised some cured meat and fried pork fat. Yep, I said it. Fried pork fat.

For our first courses, I went with the hunter's sausage served with a red wine sauce...

...and my wife ordered the Lyonnaise salad, featuring a poached egg, bacon lardons, croutons, and frisee salad.

For our mains, we wanted to try something a bit out of the box and went with this liver cake. It came served in a tomato sauce and chunks of a soft, mild cheese. I generally like liver alot but I wasn't a huge fan of this dish.

The other main we tried was fried pork trotters. The pork trotters were coated and fried til crispy. The trotters were gelatinous as you would imagine but overall, the dish was a bit greasy.

For dessert, we ordered the chestnut cake....

...and prunes marinated in some lemon, syrup and red wine.

The chestnut cake was actually pretty good. Chestnut is served all over France and is used in alot of different pastries and desserts. The cake itself wasn't overly sweet, which I liked. The marinated prunes were nothing special.

As a whole, the lunch was enjoyable but nothing incredibly memorable. The amuse bouche of the fried pork fat was the highlight for me, followed by the starter courses of the sausage and Lyonnaise salad. If I recall correctly, the pre-set menu wasn't more than 15-20 euro a person, so it was decent value overall for lunch.


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